Assembly Notes for Model 1115 Kits

Tools Required for 1115u-k:

Needle Nose Pliers

Xacto knife or other sharp cutter

Wire Stripper

Soldering Equipment

Small Philips Screwdriver

Side/Wire Cutter


For Models 1115t-k and 1115e-k you will also need:

5/32 hex wrench ( "t" model only) and

7/16ths open end wrench for locking nuts


Install connector(s) using the short (3/8ths) machine screw on the left side, the longer (716ths) screw will be used later for  the shield ring terminal.  For the "et" versions, you should also install the zip tie mounts on the inside of the enclosure using the short machine screws.  The slot where the zip tie will be inserted should be pointing toward the side eyebolt holes.

Using an Xacto knife or sharp box cutter and the short piece of coax we included to get a feel for how much force is required to pierce the  jacket but not cut the shield wires. We scribe a cut all around the jacket at the 1" mark and then run a longitudinal cut from the 1" cut to the end of coax. Lash to the coax to the toroid with two small crisscrossed zip ties leaving the 1 inch of shield hanging over the edge of the toroid.

Begin winding five turns on one side, crossover and then 5 turns on the other side.  A turn is defined by the coax passing through the center of the toroid. Try to maintain even separation between windings by also binding the last turn on both sides.  This coax is mil spec so it has a silver flashed, copper clad steel center conductor.  This combined with the Teflon center insulator makes the cable very springy so it is important to maintain pressure on the coax turns as you wind so the windings are not too loose,  Please refer to the pictures of each model for a guide and if you do not finish with a minimum of 1 to 2 inches of coax on the output side, the turns are loose.

When the toroid is fully wound, cut the coax leaving 1 inches from the toroid to the end of coax. This end should be stripped in the same manner as before.  In both cases the jacket should not extend beyond the short vertical side of the toroid.  Push the exposed braid toward the toroid forcing it to bunch up which will make it easier to separate. Split the shield with a sharp pointed tool like a scratch all, soldering tool etc and finish by twisting the shield into a single conductor. Ideally and before soldering, ring terminals should be crimped on the conductor with a crimping tool but pliers will also do a good job. 

The center conductor to the SO-239 should be stripped approx 1/8th inch from the twisted shield.  You can form the shield lead as we show in the model 1115 picture and use the long thin ring terminal on one end by forming an "L" shape approximately  3/8th inch on a side before soldering the long thin ring terminal to it.  Bend the ring terminal 1/8th of an inch above the soldering tube for connection to the SO-239.

For the "u" variation (dual SO-239s) the other end should be finished with the shield on the left (as you view from above) and a small ring terminal attached.  The center conductor should be stripped about 3/16 of an inch from the end.  Bend the shield and center conductor up 90 degrees and then bend the center conductor back 90 degrees where it will insert into the soldering cup of the connector.  Finish by installing one of the longer 4-40 machine (7/16ths) screws for each of the shield connections.

For the "t" variation(studs on top) split the shield to the right (as viewed from above) and twist into single conductor.  Now attach a large ring terminal to each conductor and insert a 1/4" inch stud through the ring terminals and the two holes opposite the SO-239.  On the outside install a washer and locking nut to secure the studs.

For the "et" variation  trim the coax opposite the SO-239 to a length of 2 inches and again split the shield to the right and attach the large ring terminals.  Insert the eyebolts through a washer and then through the enclosure and inside ring terminals securing with one of the NYLOK nuts inside.  Both the nut and eyebolt are stainless and subject to "galling" if the nut is turned too fast on the eyebolt.  If this occurs the only (and I mean only) solution is to cut the eyebolt off so go slow!!

The very large ring terminals with a notch cut out will go under the outer locking nut of the eyebolt.  Be sure to solder any connections with the ring terminals removed to avoid damaging then enclosure


Do Not Over tighten corners of cover.  Leave a gap the thickness of a dime between cover and body.  See the Balun and Unun Installation Notes for more information.